Well, this place is not what I expected. I expected bigger. Grander. More imperial glory. But I guess it makes sense, since the empire fell 60 years ago. And of course, there is no sense in preserving a history that isn't yours.
Our hotel is nice and feels brand spanking new. Its right in the center of the first district, one of the 24 that makes up the city. All the main sights, which we plan on seeing tomorrow, are here - the art deco post office, the Notre Dame, the Independence Palace, the War Remnants Museum.
Today we spent the morning in the gym (working off my pain au chocolate--a new daily habit I must break), and the rest of the day shopping. I think some of the best shopping we've come across is in Vietnam - cute little clothing stores, oodles of "traditional" embroidered silk and linens, lacquered everything. And I found an awesome exotic leathers store and scored myself a little tan croc belt for $75! Makes the stuff in Barneys seem like highway robbery. Now I just need to hope they let me back in the country with it. (P.S. if you want me to bring you croc or snake anything--belts, bags, wallets--speak now or forever hold your peace. Or at least speak up before COB tomorrow).
That being said, our bout of shopping was bookended with two very yummy culinary experiences: Pho and Vietnamese coffee.
Before we started our adventure, I had it from someone on good authority that Pho (something I would pronounce like Fo), as in fact pronounced something like Fuer. He really did it justice I think and in gearing up for our trip, we've been practicing ever since. You have to make the R sound back in your throat, and making a real funny face as you do it. And I must say, this gentlemen - sage in all things related to decorum and Asian culinary delights - he did not lead us astray. I even got a compliment from the waiter as I ordered my first bowl of Pho. He said I had good pronunciation--no joke!
For lunch, we walked into Pho 24. This was a real local, fast food type place. Not street food. It was very clean, came with a bathroom, and didn't take to preparing said food in the hallway and/or sidewalk. Instead, this was the Vietnamese version of Panera.
I ordered Pho Ga, or pho noodles with chicken. Pho, like most noodles, are traditionally considered a breakfast dish in Vietnam. The bowl arrives with fettuccine-shaped rice noodles and chunks of the protein of your choice (typically chicken or beef). These are sloshing around in a clearish broth that also includes thinly shaved white onions and scallions. Along side this are condiments, including: crunchy bean sprouts --I really like those guys -- some good spicy basil, and something that tastes like a more vegetal version of cilantro. Also on the plate are a couple slices of Thai red pepper and pungent little Kalamansi limes. This being a pho joint, each table has its own two little pots containing chili sauce in one, and black bean in the other.
There are certain things in the cannon of western culinary etiquette that do not seem to apply here. Like seasoning for example. Good breeding would have it that your food arrives seasoned to the chef's taste. You should taste it before adding salt or pepper. If you are paying more than $250 for your meal, these guys aren't even on the table. Here however, its quite the opposite. I realized this about half way through eating a rather bland bowl. In goes the chili and bean sauce. Now we are talking. The broth turns a proper brothy brown. Your nose starts to run. You bite into a chili. You take a big swig of your watermelon juice after that! Mmm. This is good....
Other notes on etiquette. You gotta get down - real good-into your bowl. And you have to use your chopsticks, plus a spoon, to make a little package worth shoveling in. I am really struggling with this, as my shirt-front can attest. It seems like there are just one too many implements to deal with at once.
Also, no napkins. This place has a wet nap, but there aren't any dry variety. This becomes an issue especially as the nose starts to run.
This delicious lunch for two runs us a cool $7.
Now on to the coffee. I had no idea, but I guess Vietnam is somewhat famous for its coffee. Coffee is not an indigenous plant here, but was introduced to Vietnam in the mid-1800s by the French. From what I can tell, the technique is similar to a french press, individually-brewed serving approach. Next comes the good part. This coffee is served either mixed with/along side sweetened condensed milk, in a ratio anywhere between 2 to 4 parts coffee for one part of condensed milk. I cannot explain the goodness of this drink.
How, as a nation, did we overlook such pleasures in favor of the frappechino? Mon dieu! I mean, Oh Ho!
I love this country. And I hope to come back. And I think you should come here too.
T here - There are a number of contradictions I have observed in our stay in Vietnam. There is a certain element of craftmanship to this place (as witnessed among the hill tribes of Northern Vietnam), and among the embroidered silk stores that populate the city blocks, but it is often overlooked. This is a country that seems to prosper on the faux. A burgeoning Vietnamese Faux-Art scene, Faux-Hermes Croc bags, Faux-brand-named electronics. If you want a good reproduction of Van Gogh's Sunflowers or Monet's Water Lillies painted in real oils by a real "artist" for a cool $50 USD, this is a great place to start. If you want some post-Vietnam War modern societal angst paintings - they have them too. It only seems that the originals are not so original, rather faux. If there are 10 galleries on the art street, than all 10 have the "original" painting. We spoke to a gallery owner and she explained that it is a shame what has happened to Vietnamese artists - they have the technical skills to be great artists, but the monetary desires to be great manufacturers. So we passed on the art. Being a sucker for finely made leather goods, we had a dilemma over whether to purchase the "real croc" bag, faux Hermes Birkin bag. It's really croc skin - in fact, there was the entire leather of one hanging on the wall. It's only faux in that it is not an Hermes Birkin bag - but sure looks like one. All it would take is one decent designer (not Jimmy Chin) with an original thought to come in there and whip up some authentically-designed croc bags at prices any American consumer would salivate over - and they'd sell thousands of them. I'm staying away from the faux-electronics - I've never been a believer in paying top dollar for electronics, since most of them follow the ritual of planned obsolescene and have a half-life shorter than seaborgium, but there is something in the brand name that gives you comfort.
ReplyDeletePho is not faux. Pho is authentically Vietnamese - and it is darn good. It would be easy to copy the American cuisines (most are) - you don't get a lot of it over here - there are some KFC's (which I think are not faux, though they are branded slightly different - Ga Ran Kentucky -the Colonel looks the same), but not a lot else when it comes to copied cuisine.
Vietnam has been one of the more authentic places we have visited in Asia. Faux-Communism, Faux-Consumerism, Faux this, faux that; once you get past the fauxs, the heart of it is as good as a steaming bowl of Pho.